Lentils, Sausages & Red Underwear – Italian New Year Traditions

Article first published as Lentils, Sausages & Red Underwear: Italian New Year Traditions on Technorati.

Christmas has come and gone already. The last remains of the panettone and croccante have been eaten on Boxing Day, and these few days between the celebrations of the birth of Jesus and the arrival of the New Year are a bit subdued. People lucky enough to be on holiday sleep in and go for walks, or take advantage of the sales in their favourite shops. The ones who had to go into work find that not much is going on. It is as if time is standing still.

On December 31^st, this all changes. The preparations for New Year's Eve start and there is a feeling of excitement in the air again. Leaving the current year behind and looking forward to the new one always bring a fresh burst of optimism and happiness. If you are celebrating at home with family and friends, you will most probably be cooking “cotechino e lenticchie”. This is a traditional dish featuring fresh pork sausages and lentils. Both ingredients are important: eating pork and lentils means that the coming year will be a prosperous one for you. As you prepare this recipe for the big night, its fragrant aroma filling your kitchen, and when later on you enjoy the delicious taste of it, you cannot help but believe that this belief is indeed true.

The best way to buy cotechino is raw, as opposed to pre-cooked, as it will give even more flavour to the casserole. As for the lentils, the best one are said to come form Castelluccio di Norcia, a lovely village located in stunning Umbria. This dish is so popular that should you decide to go out you will find it on the menu in many restaurants, either in its usual form or revamped for the occasion.

Another interesting tradition is to wear read underwear for good luck. But beware: not any old or simply already worn red underwear will do. No, it has to be new, and to have been given as a gift to you. One may wonder how much of the shops turnover sales of red underwear account for at the end of the year!

In some regions, people will also eat pomegranate, another symbol of prosperity and abundance, or chuck old objects out of the window (the latter mostly in the south).

As for the following traditions, they are shared with many other countries: to kiss under the mistletoe, fireworks at midnight and to welcome the New Year with a glass sparkling wine. The most popular choices are a bottle coming from the Franciacorta wine region (Lombardy), Prosecco (Veneto) or simply the local "spumante" or "frizzante".

Happy New Year!

Sicily – A Land Of Contradictions

Article first published as Sicily - A Land of Contradictions on Technorati.

The picturesque miniature villages, forgotten by modern life and going about at a slower, somehow more genuine pace. The gorgeous sand beaches leading to waters so clear you can spot the details of the tiny fish swimming near the bottom of the sea. A culinary tradition of such richness  that every visit to this Italian island unveils new delights and entices you to come back again and again. Vibrant cities such as Palermo and Taormina, with their cultural heritage and many architectural wonders. Dramatic volcanoes, the Etna winning the prize of the most famous one, the green plain of Catania spreading under its looming shape. An abundance of citrus fruit, almonds and vegetables. A bountiful production of wine and oil, as well a thriving fishing trade. Add natural resources such as sulphur, gas and salt. Yes, Sicily has it all.

But this blessed part of our planet is also steeped in contradictions. Let's concentrate on a few in particular.

The majority of the population has of course elected to live in the coastal areas, the massive exodus resulting in the inner, rural territories being seriously under populated. This is unlikely to change and is creating an imbalance in the financial circumstances of the population. Did Dolce & Gabbana's three months casting in Sicily to discover non-professional models for their latest men summer collection included the whole territory? It would be interesting to know.

A little bundle of joy will soon be joining your family. As your pregnancy progresses, you will no doubt appreciate to find out that parking spaces are reserved especially for you. But will this delicate attention make you forget about the lack of pavement and how dangerous this makes walking in the streets? Not so sure.

As mentioned at the beginning of this article, the Sicilian beaches are out of this world, and you will find that they are often not crowded at all, which definitely has its importance in making the experience an enjoyable one. You leave the seaside after soaking up the sun the whole day, feeling contented and relaxed. The last thing you fancy coming across are various heaps of garbage strewn around. Sadly, this might well be the case, casting an unpleasant shadow over your stay in heaven.

You will also almost certainly step into a beautiful grocery store that has retained the flair of an era long vanished. You find yourself unable to resist filling your basket with artisanal goodies, wrapped in colourful paper or moving gently inside an old-fashioned jar or bottle. The shock of the bill at the till will certainly make you leave your reverie at once.

Sicily, a land of many contradictions. But so worth discovering.

Italian Body Language

Article first published as Italian Body Language on Technorati.


Every European nation has been attributed its own clichés: The French complain a lot but are romantic, the Germans have no sense of humor but work very hard, The Spanish are loud but welcoming, etc. You will agree I think that an entire nation cannot be cataloged into such narrow boxes. I happen to live in Germany and most people I have encountered do have a sense of humor. They are also in the vast majority very helpful, warm and welcoming towards my family and myself.

One cliché I do find to be true, though, is how important body language is to Italians. Perhaps I especially notice it as it has been pointed out to me that I am prone to "speaking with my hands". No doubt this is the Italian blood in me coming to the surface!

During a visit to the lesser known perhaps but absolutely gorgeous region of the Marches, we encountered many local people and enjoyed watching them interacting. Our house was close to the lovely walled city of Urbino, to which we cycled on a magnificent sunny day. Comfortably sitting down at a café terrace and having ordered much needed refreshments, I began to discreetly look at our neighbors. Now my Italian is rather basic, and I did not try, nor did I want, to pry. I just observed people instead.

Two women in their mid-thirties, I would say, we engrossed in a passionate and obviously very amusing discussion. They both kept throwing their heads back, laughing heartily, hands alternatively flying to their mouths and to their hearts. Their eyes were twinkling, and they were having trouble keeping the loudness of their voices under control. Behind them I spotted a woman with two young boys. The look of love in her eyes, her head half tilted, the way she kept patting their heads and pinching their round cheeks, all this told me that she was their mother. She had a game of blowing them kisses, pulling a funny face at the same time, which kept the little ones highly entertained. On the other side, a middle age couple look as though they were going through a stormy patch in their relationship. Hands were pointing accusingly at each other, and it seemed that reproaches were being uttered through clenched teeth. After a while, they both sat back and fell silent, looking away from each other, arms firmly crossed on their chests. Finally, I rested my gaze on a group of teenagers, the girls pretending not to be flirting while the boys clearly were competing for their attention. They kept getting up, throwing their arms on the side, and looking deeply into the eyes of the girl they were desperate to impress. In return the said girl usually gave a small smile and intense look, only to quickly resume her demure position.
As they walked away, I noticed hands being held and heads resting on shoulders. I could not help but smile: the courting had clearly been successful!

Egadi Islands - Favignana

Favignana, Marettimo and Levanzo are the names of the three principal Egadi Islands, located off the magnificent western coast of Sicily. This article focuses on Favignana, the largest one.

It is situated between Trapani and Marsala, and its proximity to Trapani international airport makes it easily accessible, while remaining unspoilt. It has a land area of about twenty square kilometres and the two plains on either side of a chain of hills have given Favignana its "butterfly" nickname. A tunnel running through the hills connects the two parts. The island is composed mostly of calcareous boulders, and visitors are also usually fascinated by the "cave di tufo", huge cavities which are the result of years of quarrying. These gaping holes can surprisingly conceal a precious area of greenery, or be filled with pretty pools of sea water. The most wondrous can be found around Scalo Cavallo, Bue Marino and Cala Rossa. The rugged coastline means that the beaches are often small and sometimes hard to access, but Favignana is a sought-after spot for all types of diving activities. Its turquoise waters have been protected by a marine reserve and there is no shortage of diving centres.

The main town, also called Favignana, is where the ferry stops. Built around a pretty port, it is dominated by Santa Caterina Fort, once a Saracen observatory post, nowadays in military hands. Facing the sea, the heritage of the rich Florio family, which used to be active in the production and export of Marsala wine as well as tuna fishing, can be found. It takes the shape of the Palazzo Florio and the tonnara (tuna fishery). Tuna fishing is still going strong, Favignana being one of the few places in Italy where the bloody mattanza method is still alive. It is however a historic ritual performed every year in May or June, and one of the principal tourist attractions.

Apart from scuba diving, snorkelling and swimming, other options include boat tours and cycling. You can hire your own craft, or participate in an excursion. Boatmen will also come to you spontaneously in the harbour, with ideas of a trip to secluded beaches or around the island. You can book a fishing trip too. With its flat landscape, exploring the island on a bike is popular. If you did not bring your own, you can hire one at a low cost without problem, and either set off alone or join a guided tour.

For sustenance, you have a choice between shops selling everything from tuna steaks to take-away pizze, or a wide range of restaurants. The prices are fair for a touristic place, and if you like fish and seafood you will be in heaven.

Are you after authenticity and unpretentious beauty? Then Favagna is for you.

A Trip to Italy with Jamie

Article first published as A Trip To Italy With Jamie on Technorati.

 

Is it still necessary to present Jamie Oliver? The talented chef, who started his career at Neal’s Yard and The River Café before setting up on his own, has become a star. Restaurants, TV shows, a foundation, campaigns to promote healthy eating, kitchen accessories and food range, the list is endless. Of course, there are the cookbooks. Almost twenty of them.

One of my favourites is “Jamie’s Italy”. It starts with the book cover. Jamie may be English, but it looks like his heart belongs to Italy. The chef is obviously very relaxed, sitting outside on a red stool against a wall whose paint has seen better days, his foot propped up against an old Fiat Cinquecento. He is eating spaghetti coated in a tomato sauce, and the expression on his face says it all. It gives you the urge to open the book and start cooking straight away.

To gather the recipes, Jamie embarked on a tour of the country in a VW bus with a kitchen built in a trailer, allowing him to easily cook wherever he stopped. Tuscany, the Marches, Sicily, etc, Jamie clearly had a genuine and deep connection to the people he met during his peregrinations, as the photos attest. A lot of smiles and hand gestures going on, and touching moments such as Jamie observing an old man repairing his fishnet, pouring a glass of wine for a shepherd or making pasta with four generations of women. When I browse through this publication and take the time to look at the pictures, it makes me want to visit the night markets of Palermo to taste these chickpea fritters or to enter a pasta competition in Le Marche!

The book delivers more than 120 of classic and new recipes, classified under:
Antipasti (Starters)
Street Food and Pizze
First Dishes (featuring soups, pasta and risotto)
Salads
Second Dishes (featuring fish and meat)
Side Dishes
Desserts

“Jamie’s Italy” focuses on authentic, mouthwatering food, best eaten with family and friends. Italians “Mamas” revealed their pasta making secrets to Jamie and owners of “agroturismo” inns welcomed him into their way of life. The warmth of the exchanges Jamie had with locals also transpires in the writing and the way the recipes are introduced. Yes, this love of food and sharing makes its way into your home too. I have yet to try all the recipes, but the ones my family and I already prepared received high praise, from us as well as from our guests. Needless to say, only empty plates and dishes were returned to the kitchen.

Arena Sferisterio – A Summery Suggestion

Article first published as Arena Sferisterio - A Summery Suggestion on Technorati

With spring in full bloom, longer days, warmth and sun, a subject comes up regularly in conversations. You can hear people sitting at a café terrace on a balmy evening asking their friends:

So, what are your plans for the summer? Yes, it is that time of the year again, the time to plan your holidays.

How about you? Have you already made your choice? Are you an active person who is going to spend two weeks climbing mountains, eager for the exhilaration to kick in once you get to the top? Or do you feel that you deserve a real break and will be enjoying the sun on a white sandy beach somewhere, breaking the day with the occasional swim in a crystal clear sea? Or then again you are into music and culture. If that is the case, then the Macerata Opera Festival could be the perfect event for you. Macerata is a lovely historical town in the Marche region. Situated between the Chienti and Potenza rivers, it has been built on two levels. The old part sits at the top of a hill and the recent buildings occupy the plain, with a lift connecting the two. There is plenty to see, but you should definitely not miss the Loggia dei Mercanti and the Church of Santa Maria delle Vergini, where you can admire a Tintoretto painting.

Every year, Macerata hosts an opera festival, which takes place in the Arena Sferisterio. This monumental neoclassical arena, which can sit up to 4'500 spectators, was originally in the 1820s a stadium where handball games would be played. When football took over as the nation's favourite sport, Arena Sferisterio was then turned into an opera venue. Its place as one of the favourite locations for this type of musical performances remains unchallenged still today.

The programme is being held this summer between July 20th and August 12th. It features four representations each of Verdi's La Traviata, Puccini's La Bohème and Bizet's Carmen. No need to present these pieces, as they have their place in the pantheon of the beloved and well-known operas. Even if you have enjoyed one or all of them before, perhaps it was not in an open-air setting? Then you should consider attending the festival, as you will without a doubt find it a magical experience.

The Marche has been given the name of new Tuscany, and it is not difficult to understand why. Its landscape is utterly beautiful, and there is no shortage of gorgeous properties to rent or hotels full of charm. Apart from Macerata, towns such as Treia and its collection of Renaissance and classical paintings displayed in the Town Hall, or Urbino and its magnificent Palazzo Ducale, are well worth a visit too.

Tempted yet?