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Sunday, 27 May 2012
Egadi Islands - Favignana
Favignana, Marettimo and Levanzo are the names of the three principal Egadi Islands, located off the magnificent western coast of Sicily. This article focuses on Favignana, the largest one.
It is situated between Trapani and Marsala, and its proximity to Trapani international airport makes it easily accessible, while remaining unspoilt. It has a land area of about twenty square kilometres and the two plains on either side of a chain of hills have given Favignana its "butterfly" nickname. A tunnel running through the hills connects the two parts. The island is composed mostly of calcareous boulders, and visitors are also usually fascinated by the "cave di tufo", huge cavities which are the result of years of quarrying. These gaping holes can surprisingly conceal a precious area of greenery, or be filled with pretty pools of sea water. The most wondrous can be found around Scalo Cavallo, Bue Marino and Cala Rossa. The rugged coastline means that the beaches are often small and sometimes hard to access, but Favignana is a sought-after spot for all types of diving activities. Its turquoise waters have been protected by a marine reserve and there is no shortage of diving centres.
The main town, also called Favignana, is where the ferry stops. Built around a pretty port, it is dominated by Santa Caterina Fort, once a Saracen observatory post, nowadays in military hands. Facing the sea, the heritage of the rich Florio family, which used to be active in the production and export of Marsala wine as well as tuna fishing, can be found. It takes the shape of the Palazzo Florio and the tonnara (tuna fishery). Tuna fishing is still going strong, Favignana being one of the few places in Italy where the bloody mattanza method is still alive. It is however a historic ritual performed every year in May or June, and one of the principal tourist attractions.
Apart from scuba diving, snorkelling and swimming, other options include boat tours and cycling. You can hire your own craft, or participate in an excursion. Boatmen will also come to you spontaneously in the harbour, with ideas of a trip to secluded beaches or around the island. You can book a fishing trip too. With its flat landscape, exploring the island on a bike is popular. If you did not bring your own, you can hire one at a low cost without problem, and either set off alone or join a guided tour.
For sustenance, you have a choice between shops selling everything from tuna steaks to take-away pizze, or a wide range of restaurants. The prices are fair for a touristic place, and if you like fish and seafood you will be in heaven.
Are you after authenticity and unpretentious beauty? Then Favagna is for you.
Thursday, 24 May 2012
A Week in Casa Bramasole
Article first published as A Week In Casa Bramasole on Technorati.
More and more articles are being published about the way social media now affects our lives. Twitter and Facebook are still the leaders, but new possibilities are emerging every day. We tend to spend more and more time interacting with our virtual "friends" online. But how about our real life friends? Do we still have time for them? How would you say an experience such as described below compares with how popular one can be on social networks?
Our group of four friends were driving through the dark oak forest. We finally came to a clearing and there it was, the house! We got out of the car and took the time to admire the myriad of lights around Lake Trasimeno below us. We then looked for the key that would open the beautiful Umbrian property in front of us and quickly found it. We had of course seen lots of photos of Casa Bramasole but the reality surpassed what we had been expecting. We immediately felt welcome as we entered the old converted farmhouse, while retaining its original features of old beams, terracotta tiles and brickwork. The colourful flowers and fresh fruit waiting for us in the dining room were a nice and thoughtful addition.
As we entered the spacious kitchen, we realised that this was where we would spend most of our stay. On top of the two dishwashers, massive fridge and freezer, a surprise was waiting for us: a Pavoni coffee machine! This completed the feeling of belonging that we had experienced as we had first walked into Casa Bramasole. Once the bedrooms, all different, were attributed, we set out on a complete tour of our home for the week. All the rooms were absolutely gorgeous and fireplaces could be found in the kitchen, bedrooms and living room. We were ravenous by then and the oak logs were quickly thrown into the barbecue on the terrace. We did not even wait for the fire to completely turn to embers to cook the impressive steaks we had bought on the way in Tuoro. The result was heavenly: Tender and juicy meat, eaten with tomato and garlic bruschette.
The following morning we fully discovered the unbelievable view on the lake below and the nearby hills. We were very lucky with the weather and were able to enjoy the outdoor swimming pool and to eat outside, except for one evening when we gathered around the big wooden table and ate by candlelight. The whole week was a culinary festival: mushroom risotto, steaks alla Fiorentina, homemade pasta filled with ricotta and basil, zabaione, berry tiramisu and apple tart, accompanied by local white and red wines. That last dessert we savoured in the TV room, just so we could say we had used all of these stunning rooms at least once. This part of the house was once a pigsty and the original arrow slits gives it a special atmosphere.
As we were about to leave we all stated how much we would love to come back. Perhaps this time in the winter? If only for the opportunity to snuggle up on one of the big leather sofas in the living room, with logs blazing in that enormous fireplace.
Tuesday, 22 May 2012
Bistecca alla Fiorentina
Article first published as Bistecca alla Fiorentina on Technorati.
Tuscany is
famous for its many wonderful aspects. Stunning landscapes of rolling
hills, cypress trees, fields of poppies and sunflowers and glorious
sunsets. Old barns and farms converted to magnificent properties while
retaining their original features. Glimpses of life in the Middle Ages
and even the Romanesque and Etruscan eras through its impressive and
well-preserved cities. Nature in most of its forms with a gorgeous
coastline and sandy beaches, majestic mountains, parks and reserves. Art
everywhere and well-being for the body and the mind through luxurious
spas.
Then of course there is the Tuscan cuisine and one of the trademark dishes of this fantastic area in Italy is the simple but delight for the senses "bistecca alla fiorentina" (beefsteak Florentine style). It is so famous that it even has its own Facebook page. What is so special about it? Well, first this is a T-bone or porterhouse steak that obligatorily comes from either the Chianina or Maremmana breeds of cattle if you want to stay true to the tradition.
The Chianina breed is the most common one. It was in earlier times raised as draught cattle but is now principally used for meat. It is the largest and a very old cattle breed, having been raised in the regions of Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio for over 2'000 years. The Maremmana breed gets its name from the region where it is reared in western central Italy, and has an unusual skeletal build that gives the animal its distinctive appearance.
The preparation of this huge and thickly cut piece of meat – usually meant to feed two people – is very simple, but for the desired result it is crucial that one uses the best ingredients and pays attention to all the details. You will be able to find slightly different versions calling an extra ingredient or two such as a hint of honey or a drizzle of first class olive oil. However, for the base recipe you will need only sea salt, crushed black pepper corns and garlic. The salt and pepper are sprinkled on both sides prior to cooking, but for the garlic, it depends on the chosen way. You may rub it before the steak is seared or added afterwards on the side that has just been cooked. The same goes for that drizzle of olive oil.
The seasoned steak should be put on a wood- or charcoal-fired grill for the best outcome, but should you not have one available searing in a hot frying pan can also be done. The meat has to remain quite rare, and you will be surprised at the mind-blowing burst of flavours once you start enjoying it. As a side dish, Tuscan beans or a crispy green salad are best, and a nice glass of red wine will be the finishing touch.
Sunday, 20 May 2012
The Fortified City Of Lucca
Article first published as The Fortified City of Lucca on Technorati.
One of the most lovely cities of Tuscany, Lucca is located under the
impressive Apennines mountains, with Florence and Pisa close by. The
main feature of Lucca, which makes it so special and charming, is that
it is hidden behind an amazing wall system. Built in thousands of red
bricks produced for this purpose only, these walls were meant to protect
the city during the Renaissance era. Four kilometres long, they are
still intact today and have gained the love of inhabitants and tourists
alike.
You should be aware of the fact that car traffic is prohibited in Lucca in practically all streets except for residents. Why not then enter the city through the Porta Santa Maria, the northern gate, which will take you to a typical piazza with charming cafés and… bike shops! You can then rent a bicycle to move around the city at a faster but still leisurely pace. You can access the top of the walls by steps or ramps in several spots, and you will discover that the old road has been turned into both a bike lane and a promenade. An ideal way of discovering the views over the ancient city rooftops, amphitheatre, towers and many churches, or the hills covered in olive trees and vineyards in the background. You may also want to stop and sit on one of the many benches available to immerse yourself even more in the beautiful scenery in front of you. You also have the possibility to enter or leave the old town by following the damp passages underneath the walls.
After shopping on the Via Fillungo, a visit to the Caffè Di Simo, the oldest café in Lucca might appeal to music lovers. It is said that Puccini not only was a regular visitor but that he also composed parts of his famous operas there while sipping expressos. Caffetteria San Colombano, an airy place with glass walls situated close to the train station, is also recommended. The Piazza Napoleone hosts the Summer Festival every July, a popular musical event. You will also be in prime position to look at the Palazzo Ducale and the Theatro del Giglio. The first building now hosts city offices, and the latter is still in operation today.
As you make your way around Lucca, it will be difficult not to be drawn to the magnificent villas and their courtyards. Palazzo Pfanner, which belonged to a family of silk merchants, and its gorgeous gardens are well worth a visit. Last but not least, the Torre Guinigi, adorned by oaks growing at its top, is a must see. You will most likely not be able to the see the trees from the streets below, but climbing the tower will offer you another great vantage point to admire Lucca.
You should be aware of the fact that car traffic is prohibited in Lucca in practically all streets except for residents. Why not then enter the city through the Porta Santa Maria, the northern gate, which will take you to a typical piazza with charming cafés and… bike shops! You can then rent a bicycle to move around the city at a faster but still leisurely pace. You can access the top of the walls by steps or ramps in several spots, and you will discover that the old road has been turned into both a bike lane and a promenade. An ideal way of discovering the views over the ancient city rooftops, amphitheatre, towers and many churches, or the hills covered in olive trees and vineyards in the background. You may also want to stop and sit on one of the many benches available to immerse yourself even more in the beautiful scenery in front of you. You also have the possibility to enter or leave the old town by following the damp passages underneath the walls.
After shopping on the Via Fillungo, a visit to the Caffè Di Simo, the oldest café in Lucca might appeal to music lovers. It is said that Puccini not only was a regular visitor but that he also composed parts of his famous operas there while sipping expressos. Caffetteria San Colombano, an airy place with glass walls situated close to the train station, is also recommended. The Piazza Napoleone hosts the Summer Festival every July, a popular musical event. You will also be in prime position to look at the Palazzo Ducale and the Theatro del Giglio. The first building now hosts city offices, and the latter is still in operation today.
As you make your way around Lucca, it will be difficult not to be drawn to the magnificent villas and their courtyards. Palazzo Pfanner, which belonged to a family of silk merchants, and its gorgeous gardens are well worth a visit. Last but not least, the Torre Guinigi, adorned by oaks growing at its top, is a must see. You will most likely not be able to the see the trees from the streets below, but climbing the tower will offer you another great vantage point to admire Lucca.
A Trip to Italy with Jamie
Article first published as A Trip To Italy With Jamie on Technorati.
Is it still
necessary to present Jamie Oliver? The talented chef, who started his
career at Neal’s Yard and The River Café before setting up on his own,
has become a star. Restaurants, TV shows, a foundation, campaigns to
promote healthy eating, kitchen accessories and food range, the list is
endless. Of course, there are the cookbooks. Almost twenty of them.
One of my favourites is “Jamie’s Italy”. It starts with the book cover. Jamie may be English, but it looks like his heart belongs to Italy. The chef is obviously very relaxed, sitting outside on a red stool against a wall whose paint has seen better days, his foot propped up against an old Fiat Cinquecento. He is eating spaghetti coated in a tomato sauce, and the expression on his face says it all. It gives you the urge to open the book and start cooking straight away.
To gather the recipes, Jamie embarked on a tour of the country in a VW bus with a kitchen built in a trailer, allowing him to easily cook wherever he stopped. Tuscany, the Marches, Sicily, etc, Jamie clearly had a genuine and deep connection to the people he met during his peregrinations, as the photos attest. A lot of smiles and hand gestures going on, and touching moments such as Jamie observing an old man repairing his fishnet, pouring a glass of wine for a shepherd or making pasta with four generations of women. When I browse through this publication and take the time to look at the pictures, it makes me want to visit the night markets of Palermo to taste these chickpea fritters or to enter a pasta competition in Le Marche!
The book delivers more than 120 of classic and new recipes, classified under:
Antipasti (Starters)
Street Food and Pizze
First Dishes (featuring soups, pasta and risotto)
Salads
Second Dishes (featuring fish and meat)
Side Dishes
Desserts
“Jamie’s Italy” focuses on authentic, mouthwatering food, best eaten with family and friends. Italians “Mamas” revealed their pasta making secrets to Jamie and owners of “agroturismo” inns welcomed him into their way of life. The warmth of the exchanges Jamie had with locals also transpires in the writing and the way the recipes are introduced. Yes, this love of food and sharing makes its way into your home too. I have yet to try all the recipes, but the ones my family and I already prepared received high praise, from us as well as from our guests. Needless to say, only empty plates and dishes were returned to the kitchen.
One of my favourites is “Jamie’s Italy”. It starts with the book cover. Jamie may be English, but it looks like his heart belongs to Italy. The chef is obviously very relaxed, sitting outside on a red stool against a wall whose paint has seen better days, his foot propped up against an old Fiat Cinquecento. He is eating spaghetti coated in a tomato sauce, and the expression on his face says it all. It gives you the urge to open the book and start cooking straight away.
To gather the recipes, Jamie embarked on a tour of the country in a VW bus with a kitchen built in a trailer, allowing him to easily cook wherever he stopped. Tuscany, the Marches, Sicily, etc, Jamie clearly had a genuine and deep connection to the people he met during his peregrinations, as the photos attest. A lot of smiles and hand gestures going on, and touching moments such as Jamie observing an old man repairing his fishnet, pouring a glass of wine for a shepherd or making pasta with four generations of women. When I browse through this publication and take the time to look at the pictures, it makes me want to visit the night markets of Palermo to taste these chickpea fritters or to enter a pasta competition in Le Marche!
The book delivers more than 120 of classic and new recipes, classified under:
Antipasti (Starters)
Street Food and Pizze
First Dishes (featuring soups, pasta and risotto)
Salads
Second Dishes (featuring fish and meat)
Side Dishes
Desserts
“Jamie’s Italy” focuses on authentic, mouthwatering food, best eaten with family and friends. Italians “Mamas” revealed their pasta making secrets to Jamie and owners of “agroturismo” inns welcomed him into their way of life. The warmth of the exchanges Jamie had with locals also transpires in the writing and the way the recipes are introduced. Yes, this love of food and sharing makes its way into your home too. I have yet to try all the recipes, but the ones my family and I already prepared received high praise, from us as well as from our guests. Needless to say, only empty plates and dishes were returned to the kitchen.
Labels:
antipasti,
cookbook,
cookery book,
cooking,
dessert,
dish,
fish,
holiday in italy,
holidays,
Italy,
meat,
pasta,
pizza,
recipes,
risotto,
salad,
soup
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